Aug 14, 2023
_LEARN
/
REFERENCE LAB
Do You Know What Clinical Claims Really Mean?
Just a few decades ago, the skincare industry was a data desert: full of overblown claims backed by little-to-no evidential proof. As consumers have grown more savvy, skin care companies have started to feel the pressure to back up their promises with real data. Terms like “clinically proven” and “clinically tested” are everywhere – and you’re likely to see percentages suddenly thrown into the mix. But how do you know which claims are actually reliable indicators of product efficacy? Join us as we explore all things clinical testing and technology – plus, how you can determine which claims are most meaningful and trustworthy.
_LEARN
/
REFERENCE LAB
Aug 14, 2023
Do You Know What Clinical Claims Really Mean?
Just a few decades ago, the skincare industry was a data desert: full of overblown claims backed by little-to-no evidential proof. As consumers have grown more savvy, skin care companies have started to feel the pressure to back up their promises with real data. Terms like “clinically proven” and “clinically tested” are everywhere – and you’re likely to see percentages suddenly thrown into the mix. But how do you know which claims are actually reliable indicators of product efficacy? Join us as we explore all things clinical testing and technology – plus, how you can determine which claims are most meaningful and trustworthy.
01 What is a consumer perception study?
Have you ever seen a claim like 90% of people saw a reduction in wrinkles? Chances are, it came from a consumer perception study. These studies ask users to apply a product for a number of days on a set schedule. Users are then asked to fill out a questionnaire and self-assess whether they think the product made a difference. While the results of these studies often appear very compelling, they may not be the most accurate way to predict your own results.Consumer perception studies are, by nature, subjective – and the perception of results can vary widely based on how people see themselves, what other products they’re accustomed to using, and whether they have a predisposition to give positive feedback. This means results are often highly biased. Plus, most consumer perception studies leave out important details like how many people were tested. Without that information, it’s hard to judge the value of the data. After all, 90% of 100 users reporting a positive result is much more compelling than 90% of 10 users.
01 What is a consumer perception study?
Have you ever seen a claim like 90% of people saw a reduction in wrinkles? Chances are, it came from a consumer perception study. These studies ask users to apply a product for a number of days on a set schedule. Users are then asked to fill out a questionnaire and self-assess whether they think the product made a difference. While the results of these studies often appear very compelling, they may not be the most accurate way to predict your own results.Consumer perception studies are, by nature, subjective – and the perception of results can vary widely based on how people see themselves, what other products they’re accustomed to using, and whether they have a predisposition to give positive feedback. This means results are often highly biased. Plus, most consumer perception studies leave out important details like how many people were tested. Without that information, it’s hard to judge the value of the data. After all, 90% of 100 users reporting a positive result is much more compelling than 90% of 10 users.
02 What is an expert-graded or instrumental clinical study?
Unlike consumer perception studies, expert-graded or instrumental clinical studies rely on both experts and advanced measurement tools to gather results. These tests can be used to measure almost anything–from wrinkle depth to hydration–and data is gathered following strict scientific parameters. While some data may be gathered by simply looking at the skin, this data is often accompanied by more detailed evaluation from instruments that accurately assess differences in the skin before and after product use.
02 What is an expert-graded or instrumental clinical study?
Unlike consumer perception studies, expert-graded or instrumental clinical studies rely on both experts and advanced measurement tools to gather results. These tests can be used to measure almost anything–from wrinkle depth to hydration–and data is gathered following strict scientific parameters. While some data may be gathered by simply looking at the skin, this data is often accompanied by more detailed evaluation from instruments that accurately assess differences in the skin before and after product use.
03 Why are expert-graded or instrumental studies more reliable indicators of efficacy?
Expert graders are medical or research professionals trained to gather data without bias by identifying baseline conditions and recognizing changes. Both expert graders and the tools they use are periodically tested to ensure they provide reliable measurements and observations. Plus, expert-graded and instrumental studies are strictly regimented with clear parameters for product use over a specified period of time. All of these factors increase data quality and reliability.
03 Why are expert-graded or instrumental studies more reliable indicators of efficacy?
Expert graders are medical or research professionals trained to gather data without bias by identifying baseline conditions and recognizing changes. Both expert graders and the tools they use are periodically tested to ensure they provide reliable measurements and observations. Plus, expert-graded and instrumental studies are strictly regimented with clear parameters for product use over a specified period of time. All of these factors increase data quality and reliability.
04 How are skin changes measured in instrumental clinical studies?
There are a number of tools used to measure differences in the skin in instrumental clinical studies. Three of the most common are the corneometer, cutometer and vapometer, which measure hydration, firmness and barrier function, respectively. Let’s take a closer look at how each tool accurately measures skin differences:
- Measuring hydration with the corneometer: The corneometer contains low energy electrodes that form an electromagnetic field.¹ When applied to the skin, the device sends a weak electrical current into the skin, then measures the electrical conductance of the skin. Water is a great conductor of electricity–the higher the conductance of the skin, the more hydrated it is.²
- Measuring elasticity & firmness with the cutometer: Like a tiny vacuum, the cutometer suctions a small amount of skin into its measurement probe. By measuring how much the skin resists being sucked into the probe, the cutometer can ascertain its firmness. Next, the device releases suction and measures how quickly the skin returns to its original state. This gives a reliable indicator of the skin’s elasticity. ³
- Measuring barrier function with the vapometer: Vapometers measure transepidermal water loss, or TEWL, the amount of water that escapes the skin’s deeper layers and evaporates into the environment. The skin barrier is a shield-like layer of oils, lipids and cells on the surface that prevents too much water from escaping your skin. A stronger skin barrier results in less TEWL. Vapometers contain humidity sensors that calculate how much moisture your skin is losing compared to the ambient environment.
04 How are skin changes measured in instrumental clinical studies?
There are a number of tools used to measure differences in the skin in instrumental clinical studies. Three of the most common are the corneometer, cutometer and vapometer, which measure hydration, firmness and barrier function, respectively. Let’s take a closer look at how each tool accurately measures skin differences:
- Measuring hydration with the corneometer: The corneometer contains low energy electrodes that form an electromagnetic field.¹ When applied to the skin, the device sends a weak electrical current into the skin, then measures the electrical conductance of the skin. Water is a great conductor of electricity–the higher the conductance of the skin, the more hydrated it is.²
- Measuring elasticity & firmness with the cutometer: Like a tiny vacuum, the cutometer suctions a small amount of skin into its measurement probe. By measuring how much the skin resists being sucked into the probe, the cutometer can ascertain its firmness. Next, the device releases suction and measures how quickly the skin returns to its original state. This gives a reliable indicator of the skin’s elasticity. ³
- Measuring barrier function with the vapometer: Vapometers measure transepidermal water loss, or TEWL, the amount of water that escapes the skin’s deeper layers and evaporates into the environment. The skin barrier is a shield-like layer of oils, lipids and cells on the surface that prevents too much water from escaping your skin. A stronger skin barrier results in less TEWL. Vapometers contain humidity sensors that calculate how much moisture your skin is losing compared to the ambient environment.
05 How did OneSkin use instrumental studies to evaluate OS-01 EYE
At OneSkin, we harness the power of both lab data and clinical data to ensure that our products meet our exacting, evidence-based standards. In addition to conducting lab studies that quantified the results of OS-01 EYE on human skin samples, we also put our formula to the test on users.In a 12-week clinical study, 22 healthy female (75%) and male (25%) participants, all between the ages of 47-56, used OS-01 EYE 2x daily for 12 weeks. Skin health experts from a 3rd party research organization measured the participants’ periocular skin before they started using OS-01 EYE, after 4 weeks, and after 12 weeks of use, using instrumentation analysis, expert-grader evaluations, and consumer perception in their results.Here are the key results from the instrumentation analysis for OS-01 EYE:Hydration Measured with CorneometerOS-01 EYE is clinically validated to improve skin hydration (Shown in 87.5% of users with an avg improvement of 22.79%)Elasticity Measured with CutometerOS-01 EYE is clinically validated to improve skin elasticity (Shown in 86% of users with an avg improvement of 23.58%)Firmness Measured with CutometerOS-01 EYE is clinically validated to improve skin firmness (Shown in 73% of users with an avg improvement of 10.19%)Barrier Function Measured with VapometerOS-01 EYE is clinically validated to improve skin’s barrier function (Average improvement of + 17%)
05 How did OneSkin use instrumental studies to evaluate OS-01 EYE
At OneSkin, we harness the power of both lab data and clinical data to ensure that our products meet our exacting, evidence-based standards. In addition to conducting lab studies that quantified the results of OS-01 EYE on human skin samples, we also put our formula to the test on users.In a 12-week clinical study, 22 healthy female (75%) and male (25%) participants, all between the ages of 47-56, used OS-01 EYE 2x daily for 12 weeks. Skin health experts from a 3rd party research organization measured the participants’ periocular skin before they started using OS-01 EYE, after 4 weeks, and after 12 weeks of use, using instrumentation analysis, expert-grader evaluations, and consumer perception in their results.Here are the key results from the instrumentation analysis for OS-01 EYE:Hydration Measured with CorneometerOS-01 EYE is clinically validated to improve skin hydration (Shown in 87.5% of users with an avg improvement of 22.79%)Elasticity Measured with CutometerOS-01 EYE is clinically validated to improve skin elasticity (Shown in 86% of users with an avg improvement of 23.58%)Firmness Measured with CutometerOS-01 EYE is clinically validated to improve skin firmness (Shown in 73% of users with an avg improvement of 10.19%)Barrier Function Measured with VapometerOS-01 EYE is clinically validated to improve skin’s barrier function (Average improvement of + 17%)
06 What should you look for when assessing claims?
Still unsure what you should be looking for when you assess skin care claims? Remember this simple clue: words like said, saw, agreed, and experienced usually indicate a consumer perception study. Words like clinically validated to improve indicate an instrumental study. No matter which kind of data you’re looking at, try to consider the big picture: do you trust that this data will reflect your experience or are you looking for something a little more scientific? There’s no harm in digging deeper before you decide to buy.
06 What should you look for when assessing claims?
Still unsure what you should be looking for when you assess skin care claims? Remember this simple clue: words like said, saw, agreed, and experienced usually indicate a consumer perception study. Words like clinically validated to improve indicate an instrumental study. No matter which kind of data you’re looking at, try to consider the big picture: do you trust that this data will reflect your experience or are you looking for something a little more scientific? There’s no harm in digging deeper before you decide to buy.
07 Key Takeaways
- Consumer perception studies are prevalent in the skincare industry, but are also inherently subjective and may result in biased data that over-inflate product results.
- Expert-graded/instrumental clinical studies are conducted by trained experts following strict parameters to remove bias.
- In addition to tactile and visual assessments, these studies use technology and instrumentation to reliably measure changes in the skin.
- Tools like cutometers, corneometers and vapometers can be used to measure differences in hydration, firmness and elasticity, and barrier function.
- At OneSkin, we rely on both lab and instrumental clinical studies to help us assess the effects of our products.
- In an instrumental clinical study, OS-1 EYE was shown to improve hydration, firmness, elasticity and barrier function.
07 Key Takeaways
- Consumer perception studies are prevalent in the skincare industry, but are also inherently subjective and may result in biased data that over-inflate product results.
- Expert-graded/instrumental clinical studies are conducted by trained experts following strict parameters to remove bias.
- In addition to tactile and visual assessments, these studies use technology and instrumentation to reliably measure changes in the skin.
- Tools like cutometers, corneometers and vapometers can be used to measure differences in hydration, firmness and elasticity, and barrier function.
- At OneSkin, we rely on both lab and instrumental clinical studies to help us assess the effects of our products.
- In an instrumental clinical study, OS-1 EYE was shown to improve hydration, firmness, elasticity and barrier function.
Reviewed by Alessandra Zonari, PhD, Chief Scientific Officer (CSO) and Co-Founder of OneSkin
Alessandra earned her Master’s degree in stem cell biology, and her PhD in skin regeneration and tissue engineering at the Federal University of Minas Gerais in Brazil in collaboration with the 3B’s Research Group in Portugal. Alessandra did a second post-doctoral at the University of Coimbra in Portugal. She is a co-inventor of three patents and has published 20 peer-reviewed papers in scientific journals.
Reviewed by Alessandra Zonari, PhD, Chief Scientific Officer (CSO) and Co-Founder of OneSkin
Alessandra earned her Master’s degree in stem cell biology, and her PhD in skin regeneration and tissue engineering at the Federal University of Minas Gerais in Brazil in collaboration with the 3B’s Research Group in Portugal. Alessandra did a second post-doctoral at the University of Coimbra in Portugal. She is a co-inventor of three patents and has published 20 peer-reviewed papers in scientific journals.
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