Making Sense of Sunscreen: Understanding the Difference Between Mineral and Chemical Sunscreens
3 min read
April 18,2024
SKIN CARE
Making Sense of Sunscreen: Understanding the Difference Between Mineral and Chemical Sunscreens
3 min read
April 18,2024
SKIN CARE
As summer approaches and the sun becomes a nearly constant companion, one question always comes up: what form of sunscreen is best? Today, you’ll discover the data behind mineral and chemical sunscreens, learn their potential differences in effectiveness and safety, and ultimately gain the knowledge to make the right choice for your skin.
As summer approaches and the sun becomes a nearly constant companion, one question always comes up: what form of sunscreen is best? Today, you’ll discover the data behind mineral and chemical sunscreens, learn their potential differences in effectiveness and safety, and ultimately gain the knowledge to make the right choice for your skin.
01
Selecting the Right Sunscreen for Your Needs
With so many options available, navigating the sunscreen aisle can feel overwhelming. Chemical or mineral? Zinc oxide or titanium dioxide? Non-nano or not? The benefits of protecting skin from sun damage are clear. But sunscreen efficacy and safety depend on their specific ingredients and mechanism of action, which you’ll learn about here shortly.
01
Selecting the Right Sunscreen for Your Needs
With so many options available, navigating the sunscreen aisle can feel overwhelming. Chemical or mineral? Zinc oxide or titanium dioxide? Non-nano or not? The benefits of protecting skin from sun damage are clear. But sunscreen efficacy and safety depend on their specific ingredients and mechanism of action, which you’ll learn about here shortly.
02
Exploring Sunscreen Types: Chemical vs Mineral Sunscreen
In general, sunscreens fall within 2 categories: chemical and mineral (aka physical). One of the main differences is that chemical sunscreens primarily absorb UV light whereas physical sunscreens both reflect and absorb it. In cosmetics and personal care products, chemical sunscreens are typically more prevalent since they’re light-weight, non-sticky, and easy to blend. This is due to their small particle size and the fact that they’re organic, carbon-based compounds, which helps them absorb more easily into your skin.In contrast, physical sunscreens form a physical barrier on your skin, similar to a protective shield. Their larger particle size means they’re less likely to absorb into your skin and trigger a reaction, making them more suitable for sensitive skin. However, their larger particle size also poses usability issues, such as leaving a white cast and being difficult to blend, especially for higher melanin skin. (1)
02
Exploring Sunscreen Types: Chemical vs Mineral Sunscreen
In general, sunscreens fall within 2 categories: chemical and mineral (aka physical). One of the main differences is that chemical sunscreens primarily absorb UV light whereas physical sunscreens both reflect and absorb it. In cosmetics and personal care products, chemical sunscreens are typically more prevalent since they’re light-weight, non-sticky, and easy to blend. This is due to their small particle size and the fact that they’re organic, carbon-based compounds, which helps them absorb more easily into your skin.In contrast, physical sunscreens form a physical barrier on your skin, similar to a protective shield. Their larger particle size means they’re less likely to absorb into your skin and trigger a reaction, making them more suitable for sensitive skin. However, their larger particle size also poses usability issues, such as leaving a white cast and being difficult to blend, especially for higher melanin skin. (1)
03
Chemical Sunscreens
Some of the most common chemical sunscreen ingredients include avobenzone, oxybenzone, octocrylene, homosalate, octisalate, and octinoxate. (2) Because these types of ingredients need to be absorbed into your skin to do their job, it takes approximately 15-30 minutes for them to take effect.
03
Chemical Sunscreens
Some of the most common chemical sunscreen ingredients include avobenzone, oxybenzone, octocrylene, homosalate, octisalate, and octinoxate. (2) Because these types of ingredients need to be absorbed into your skin to do their job, it takes approximately 15-30 minutes for them to take effect.
How Chemical Sunscreens Work
Chemical sunscreens work by soaking up UV rays. Kind of like a tiny sponge, they absorb UV light energy, then release it as heat within your skin. (3) But here’s the catch. Some of the ingredients in chemical sunscreens are prone to degradation and oxidation when exposed to UV light over time. That means the one you’re using may also include some kind of stabilizing agent to make sure it’s effective, or may generate harmful free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS). (4)
How Chemical Sunscreens Work
Chemical sunscreens work by soaking up UV rays. Kind of like a tiny sponge, they absorb UV light energy, then release it as heat within your skin. (3) But here’s the catch. Some of the ingredients in chemical sunscreens are prone to degradation and oxidation when exposed to UV light over time. That means the one you’re using may also include some kind of stabilizing agent to make sure it’s effective, or may generate harmful free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS). (4)
Evaluating Chemical Sunscreens’ Efficacy and Safety
While it’s true that chemical sunscreens can protect against UVA and UVB rays, some data indicates that they may end up doing more harm than good if used in large amounts or very frequently. Since chemical sunscreens need to absorb into skin to work, they end up interacting with your skin cells on a much deeper level. And with that intimate interaction comes increased opportunities for adverse reactions.In fact, studies show that even after just a single application, albeit in a large amount, chemical sunscreen ingredients may linger in your body at unsafe levels for over 2 weeks. (5) Plus, many of these compounds are bioaccumulative (6, 7, 8), meaning they can build up over time and potentially cause hormone disruption (9) and neurotoxicity. (10) Not exactly what you want from a sunscreen.It should be noted, that much of the data on the health risks of chemical sunscreens have been done on animal studies or in large doses which may be unrealistic to actual use. To conclusively determine their safety, more clinical research should be be done, however current data at least suggests their potential for harm to human health, especially given the frequency and amount that is recommended for sunscreens.
Evaluating Chemical Sunscreens’ Efficacy and Safety
While it’s true that chemical sunscreens can protect against UVA and UVB rays, some data indicates that they may end up doing more harm than good if used in large amounts or very frequently. Since chemical sunscreens need to absorb into skin to work, they end up interacting with your skin cells on a much deeper level. And with that intimate interaction comes increased opportunities for adverse reactions.In fact, studies show that even after just a single application, albeit in a large amount, chemical sunscreen ingredients may linger in your body at unsafe levels for over 2 weeks. (5) Plus, many of these compounds are bioaccumulative (6, 7, 8), meaning they can build up over time and potentially cause hormone disruption (9) and neurotoxicity. (10) Not exactly what you want from a sunscreen.It should be noted, that much of the data on the health risks of chemical sunscreens have been done on animal studies or in large doses which may be unrealistic to actual use. To conclusively determine their safety, more clinical research should be be done, however current data at least suggests their potential for harm to human health, especially given the frequency and amount that is recommended for sunscreens.
04
Mineral Sunscreens
When it comes to shielding your skin from UV radiation, mineral sunscreens could be a less risky choice. That’s because titanium dioxide and zinc oxide (the two common ingredients in mineral sunscreens), are often made of larger particles and therefore sit on top of your skin rather than absorbing into it.
04
Mineral Sunscreens
When it comes to shielding your skin from UV radiation, mineral sunscreens could be a less risky choice. That’s because titanium dioxide and zinc oxide (the two common ingredients in mineral sunscreens), are often made of larger particles and therefore sit on top of your skin rather than absorbing into it.
How Mineral Sunscreens Work
Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide have a high refractive index, which allows them to protect your skin from sun damage by both reflecting and absorbing UV light. Not only that, mineral sunscreens start working right away — in 15 minutes or less in most cases.And because they sit on top of the skin rather than absorbing into it, mineral sunscreens are less likely to cause irritation. Zinc oxide also has anti-inflammatory and non-comedogenic properties, which is great news if you have sensitive skin or are prone to skin allergies or breakouts. (1, 11)
How Mineral Sunscreens Work
Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide have a high refractive index, which allows them to protect your skin from sun damage by both reflecting and absorbing UV light. Not only that, mineral sunscreens start working right away — in 15 minutes or less in most cases.And because they sit on top of the skin rather than absorbing into it, mineral sunscreens are less likely to cause irritation. Zinc oxide also has anti-inflammatory and non-comedogenic properties, which is great news if you have sensitive skin or are prone to skin allergies or breakouts. (1, 11)
What’s More Effective: Zinc Oxide or Titanium Dioxide?
Mineral sunscreens can be formulated with zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, or a combination of both. Each is regarded as “generally safe and effective” by the FDA, but there’s more to the story. (12) When it comes to broad spectrum protection, zinc oxide tends to outshine titanium dioxide, especially with regards to the UVA rays that cause premature aging. (3)While titanium dioxide’s effects can vary based on particle size and overall formulation (13), zinc oxide is known to deliver better protection across the full UV spectrum. That said, zinc oxide’s benefits go beyond just blocking UV radiation. This celebrated mineral has been used for centuries in everything from wound care to diaper rash treatments. (14)
What’s More Effective: Zinc Oxide or Titanium Dioxide?
Mineral sunscreens can be formulated with zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, or a combination of both. Each is regarded as “generally safe and effective” by the FDA, but there’s more to the story. (12) When it comes to broad spectrum protection, zinc oxide tends to outshine titanium dioxide, especially with regards to the UVA rays that cause premature aging. (3)While titanium dioxide’s effects can vary based on particle size and overall formulation (13), zinc oxide is known to deliver better protection across the full UV spectrum. That said, zinc oxide’s benefits go beyond just blocking UV radiation. This celebrated mineral has been used for centuries in everything from wound care to diaper rash treatments. (14)
Non-Nano Might be Safer and Goes On Smoother
Mineral sunscreens haven’t always been the easiest to apply. That white, chalky cast and heavy texture isn’t exactly a recipe for daily wearability. To boost usability, many brands turn to mineral nanoparticles – their smaller size making application more seamless and lightweight.Here’s the problem though. Shrinking down mineral UV filters also introduce some concerning risks remarkably similar to those controversial chemical sunscreen agents. While larger mineral particles are unlikely to penetrate into the bloodstream, studies show that nanoparticles have the potential to slip past the skin's protective barrier. (15)Once inside, these tiny particles may accumulate in organs and wreak havoc by producing reactive oxygen species when exposed to UV radiation. They can damage cells, impair tissue function, and pose particular problems if you have a compromised skin barrier. (1)The environmental impacts are also problematic. Evidence suggests mineral nanoparticles can make their way into aquatic ecosystems and disrupt delicate marine life - with titanium dioxide nanoparticles being a prime culprit. (1) Zinc oxide nanoparticles show a lower risk of skin penetration than titanium dioxide nanoparticles, making them a relatively safer mineral option, however, concerns around their long-term impacts still exist. (1)
Non-Nano Might be Safer and Goes On Smoother
Mineral sunscreens haven’t always been the easiest to apply. That white, chalky cast and heavy texture isn’t exactly a recipe for daily wearability. To boost usability, many brands turn to mineral nanoparticles – their smaller size making application more seamless and lightweight.Here’s the problem though. Shrinking down mineral UV filters also introduce some concerning risks remarkably similar to those controversial chemical sunscreen agents. While larger mineral particles are unlikely to penetrate into the bloodstream, studies show that nanoparticles have the potential to slip past the skin's protective barrier. (15)Once inside, these tiny particles may accumulate in organs and wreak havoc by producing reactive oxygen species when exposed to UV radiation. They can damage cells, impair tissue function, and pose particular problems if you have a compromised skin barrier. (1)The environmental impacts are also problematic. Evidence suggests mineral nanoparticles can make their way into aquatic ecosystems and disrupt delicate marine life - with titanium dioxide nanoparticles being a prime culprit. (1) Zinc oxide nanoparticles show a lower risk of skin penetration than titanium dioxide nanoparticles, making them a relatively safer mineral option, however, concerns around their long-term impacts still exist. (1)
05
Our POV on SPFs
Though more clinical research needs to be done, current data suggest that some chemical sunscreen ingredients may be harmful to health when used frequently and/or in large amounts. That's why we opted for non-nano zinc oxide in OS-01 FACE SPF and OS-01 BODY SPF, which we determined to have the lowest risk of health effects and the maximum broad spectrum protection compared to other chemical and mineral alternatives. Non-nano zinc oxide is also the safest for the oceans and marine life as the larger particle sizes are not water soluble, and so they are more likely to settle on to the seafloor and becomes a natural part of the sediment.
05
Our POV on SPFs
Though more clinical research needs to be done, current data suggest that some chemical sunscreen ingredients may be harmful to health when used frequently and/or in large amounts. That's why we opted for non-nano zinc oxide in OS-01 FACE SPF and OS-01 BODY SPF, which we determined to have the lowest risk of health effects and the maximum broad spectrum protection compared to other chemical and mineral alternatives. Non-nano zinc oxide is also the safest for the oceans and marine life as the larger particle sizes are not water soluble, and so they are more likely to settle on to the seafloor and becomes a natural part of the sediment.
06
Introducing OS-01 BODY SPF
Recognizing the importance of safe, effective sun protection, we’re excited to introduce our newest broad spectrum body mineral sunscreen, OS-01 BODY SPF. Formulated with 100% non-nano zinc oxide, powerful antioxidants, and our proprietary OS-01 peptide, this daily collagen-supporting formula* blends effortlessly, shielding your skin from UV damage, while targeting skin aging, and keeping skin nourished and smooth. Pair that with OS-01 FACE SPF (formerly OS-01 SHIELD) and you have a trifecta of protection against UV rays, collagen degradation*, and cellular aging from head to toe. (16)*Based on data from clinical studies and/or lab studies conducted on human skin samples, 3D skin models, and skin cells in the OneSkin lab. Explore more at oneskin.co/claims
06
Introducing OS-01 BODY SPF
Recognizing the importance of safe, effective sun protection, we’re excited to introduce our newest broad spectrum body mineral sunscreen, OS-01 BODY SPF. Formulated with 100% non-nano zinc oxide, powerful antioxidants, and our proprietary OS-01 peptide, this daily collagen-supporting formula* blends effortlessly, shielding your skin from UV damage, while targeting skin aging, and keeping skin nourished and smooth. Pair that with OS-01 FACE SPF (formerly OS-01 SHIELD) and you have a trifecta of protection against UV rays, collagen degradation*, and cellular aging from head to toe. (16)*Based on data from clinical studies and/or lab studies conducted on human skin samples, 3D skin models, and skin cells in the OneSkin lab. Explore more at oneskin.co/claims
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Key Takeaways:
- There are generally 2 categories of sunscreens, chemical and mineral (aka physical)
- Chemical sunscreens absorb UV light and can enter the bloodstream, while mineral sunscreens create a physical barrier and reflect UV rays
- Chemical sunscreen ingredients are also shown to stay in the body at unsafe levels for over 2 weeks
- Mineral sunscreens offer broad spectrum protection (UVA and UVB rays) and consist of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, or a combination of both; they’re also anti-inflammatory and non-comedogenic
- Zinc oxide is known to deliver better full spectrum protection than titanium dioxide
- Non-nano zinc oxide is considered the gold standard of sunscreens due to its protective shield and larger particle size which is safer for skin and marine life
Key Takeaways:
- There are generally 2 categories of sunscreens, chemical and mineral (aka physical)
- Chemical sunscreens absorb UV light and can enter the bloodstream, while mineral sunscreens create a physical barrier and reflect UV rays
- Chemical sunscreen ingredients are also shown to stay in the body at unsafe levels for over 2 weeks
- Mineral sunscreens offer broad spectrum protection (UVA and UVB rays) and consist of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, or a combination of both; they’re also anti-inflammatory and non-comedogenic
- Zinc oxide is known to deliver better full spectrum protection than titanium dioxide
- Non-nano zinc oxide is considered the gold standard of sunscreens due to its protective shield and larger particle size which is safer for skin and marine life
References
- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK537164/
- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32541340/
- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3781714/
- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26431814/
- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3543289/
- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1831786/
- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29086472/
- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7004163/
References
- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK537164/
- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32541340/
- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3781714/
- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26431814/
- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3543289/
- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1831786/
- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29086472/
- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7004163/
Reviewed by Alessandra Zonari, PhD, Chief Scientific Officer (CSO) and Co-Founder of OneSkin
Alessandra earned her Master’s degree in stem cell biology, and her PhD in skin regeneration and tissue engineering at the Federal University of Minas Gerais in Brazil in collaboration with the 3B’s Research Group in Portugal. Alessandra did a second post-doctoral at the University of Coimbra in Portugal. She is a co-inventor of three patents and has published 20 peer-reviewed papers in scientific journals.
Reviewed by Alessandra Zonari, PhD, Chief Scientific Officer (CSO) and Co-Founder of OneSkin
Alessandra earned her Master’s degree in stem cell biology, and her PhD in skin regeneration and tissue engineering at the Federal University of Minas Gerais in Brazil in collaboration with the 3B’s Research Group in Portugal. Alessandra did a second post-doctoral at the University of Coimbra in Portugal. She is a co-inventor of three patents and has published 20 peer-reviewed papers in scientific journals.
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