Peptides may be small in size, but they are remarkably influential players in our biology. So, what is a peptide and are the benefits really all they are made out to be? Present in all cells and tissues, peptides perform a wide range of essential functions in our bodies, and they are notably one of the most powerful molecules at regulating and altering our biological processes.
Peptides may be small in size, but they are remarkably influential players in our biology. So, what is a peptide and are the benefits really all they are made out to be? Present in all cells and tissues, peptides perform a wide range of essential functions in our bodies, and they are notably one of the most powerful molecules at regulating and altering our biological processes.
This makes peptides a key gadget in scientistsβ tool boxes for developing effective and innovative products across various industries, such as the biomedical, cosmetic, and even agricultural markets. In particular, peptides have made waves in the cosmetic, beauty, and skincare industries for their ability to penetrate the skinβs multiple layers when applied topically. While most ingredients in topical skin care products stay on the surface of the skin, peptides are able to penetrate through the skin barrier and reach skinβs deepest layers due to their small size. This lends to a few remarkable benefits of peptides. Here are the top 3:
- Peptides can strengthen the skin barrier (epidermal function).
- Peptides can enhance skin elasticity and firmness.
- Peptides can help fight inflammation.
This makes peptides a key gadget in scientistsβ tool boxes for developing effective and innovative products across various industries, such as the biomedical, cosmetic, and even agricultural markets. In particular, peptides have made waves in the cosmetic, beauty, and skincare industries for their ability to penetrate the skinβs multiple layers when applied topically. While most ingredients in topical skin care products stay on the surface of the skin, peptides are able to penetrate through the skin barrier and reach skinβs deepest layers due to their small size. This lends to a few remarkable benefits of peptides. Here are the top 3:
- Peptides can strengthen the skin barrier (epidermal function).
- Peptides can enhance skin elasticity and firmness.
- Peptides can help fight inflammation.
01
How do they do it?
Peptides donβt actually do this themselves; they delegate!Peptides of different sizes and sequences have different functionalities. Some act as hormones, communicating information through the blood from one tissue to another. Others act as carrier proteins, ushering essential molecules from point A to point B. And others called signaling peptides, trigger functions within cells that can influence cell survival, proliferation, and protein formation.The most effective peptides in skincare are often signaling peptides, which can help promote skin's natural abilities to synthesize proteins like collagen and elastin.
01
How do they do it?
Peptides donβt actually do this themselves; they delegate!Peptides of different sizes and sequences have different functionalities. Some act as hormones, communicating information through the blood from one tissue to another. Others act as carrier proteins, ushering essential molecules from point A to point B. And others called signaling peptides, trigger functions within cells that can influence cell survival, proliferation, and protein formation.The most effective peptides in skincare are often signaling peptides, which can help promote skin's natural abilities to synthesize proteins like collagen and elastin.
02
The importance of collagen and its decline with age
Collagen is a critical structural protein of the skin. It forms fibrous networks which help replenish dead skin cells and promote skin strength, elasticity and firmness. Collagen also strengthens the skin barrier, which fortifies your ability to keep out the toxic molecules, pathogens, and external aggressors. It also locks essential molecules in, such as water, keeping the skin hydrated.Unfortunately, collagen production declines with age. According to a 2021 study, starting early on in life, fibroblasts become less active and collagen production declines by about 1.0%-1.5% a year, only to be accelarated more hormonal changes associated with menopause. [2]
02
The importance of collagen and its decline with age
Collagen is a critical structural protein of the skin. It forms fibrous networks which help replenish dead skin cells and promote skin strength, elasticity and firmness. Collagen also strengthens the skin barrier, which fortifies your ability to keep out the toxic molecules, pathogens, and external aggressors. It also locks essential molecules in, such as water, keeping the skin hydrated.Unfortunately, collagen production declines with age. According to a 2021 study, starting early on in life, fibroblasts become less active and collagen production declines by about 1.0%-1.5% a year, only to be accelarated more hormonal changes associated with menopause. [2]
03
Methods to increase collagen
There are two plausible ways to introduce collagen to the body to try to make up for its steady decline with age: ingestion of collagen and topical application of collagen-stimulating ingredients.A 2019 study, A Collagen Supplement Improves Skin Hydration, Elasticity, Roughness, and Density: Results of a Randomized, Placebo-Controlled, Blind Study, recorded the impacts of collagen on 72 healthy women aged 35 years or older. It determined that ingesting hydrolyzed collagen significantly improved skin hydration, elasticity, roughness and density. [3]Unfortunately, ingested collagen must travel through the digestive tract, where proteins are broken down into their building blocks, called amino acids, and redistributed all over the body. The amino acids that do get sent to the skin are often not recognized as collagen fragments and serve as building blocks for general protein synthesis. Thus, to maximize collagen levels in support of healthy skin, scientists recommend stimulating natural collagen production directly in the epidermis. Thus, applying topical ingredients, such as in the form of a peptide moisturizer, that promotes collagen production locally is a perfect way to ensure that collagen is building in the skin specifically. [4]Why not aply collagen directly to the skin? Because most collagen proteins are too large to penetrate the skin barrier, therefore they simply sit atop the skin and are washed off with cleanser.
03
Methods to increase collagen
There are two plausible ways to introduce collagen to the body to try to make up for its steady decline with age: ingestion of collagen and topical application of collagen-stimulating ingredients.A 2019 study, A Collagen Supplement Improves Skin Hydration, Elasticity, Roughness, and Density: Results of a Randomized, Placebo-Controlled, Blind Study, recorded the impacts of collagen on 72 healthy women aged 35 years or older. It determined that ingesting hydrolyzed collagen significantly improved skin hydration, elasticity, roughness and density. [3]Unfortunately, ingested collagen must travel through the digestive tract, where proteins are broken down into their building blocks, called amino acids, and redistributed all over the body. The amino acids that do get sent to the skin are often not recognized as collagen fragments and serve as building blocks for general protein synthesis. Thus, to maximize collagen levels in support of healthy skin, scientists recommend stimulating natural collagen production directly in the epidermis. Thus, applying topical ingredients, such as in the form of a peptide moisturizer, that promotes collagen production locally is a perfect way to ensure that collagen is building in the skin specifically. [4]Why not aply collagen directly to the skin? Because most collagen proteins are too large to penetrate the skin barrier, therefore they simply sit atop the skin and are washed off with cleanser.
04
Not all collagen-stimulating ingredients are good
When considering how to use peptides in skin care, it should be noted that some topical collagen-stimulating ingredients have negative side effects. While ingredients such as retinol can be applied topically to promote collagen production, it may do this at the expense of the skin's barrier function, at least in the short term. Alternatively, ingredients like peptides can be easily absorbed by the skin cells and promote collagen production without breaking down the skin barrier. When comparing peptides vs retinol, this is easily the most significant factor that distinguishes the two ingredients.
04
Not all collagen-stimulating ingredients are good
When considering how to use peptides in skin care, it should be noted that some topical collagen-stimulating ingredients have negative side effects. While ingredients such as retinol can be applied topically to promote collagen production, it may do this at the expense of the skin's barrier function, at least in the short term. Alternatively, ingredients like peptides can be easily absorbed by the skin cells and promote collagen production without breaking down the skin barrier. When comparing peptides vs retinol, this is easily the most significant factor that distinguishes the two ingredients.
05
Some peptides may help fight inflammation
As we age, our body becomes increasingly populated with free radicals which are, quite literally, unstable. These reactive molecules damage DNA, RNA and proteins, causing inflammation, which is one of the main causes of skin aging. Antioxidants neutralize these reactive free radicals before they can damage anything. [5]Both peptides and proteins are capable of antioxidant activity, but peptides are recorded to be superior antioxidants since small molecules are more easily absorbed into tissues. [6]
05
Some peptides may help fight inflammation
As we age, our body becomes increasingly populated with free radicals which are, quite literally, unstable. These reactive molecules damage DNA, RNA and proteins, causing inflammation, which is one of the main causes of skin aging. Antioxidants neutralize these reactive free radicals before they can damage anything. [5]Both peptides and proteins are capable of antioxidant activity, but peptides are recorded to be superior antioxidants since small molecules are more easily absorbed into tissues. [6]
06
Peptides might fight chronic inflammation
Interestingly, topical application of peptides have such a remarkable effect on skin due to their penetration and biological capabilities, that they are actually being studied clinically to fight chronic inflammation at the molecular level.A 2020 study highlights the potential of topical application of Antimicrobial Peptides (AMPs) to fight inflammation in individuals with Atopic Dermatitis (AD), a common chronic inflammatory skin disease. They conclude, βAMPs not only represent potent antimicrobial agents but are also efficacious at restoring the TJ barrier, reducing itching symptoms, and suppressing Th2 inflammation, and, thus, they may become a new option for barrier repair therapy in AD treatment.β [7]
06
Peptides might fight chronic inflammation
Interestingly, topical application of peptides have such a remarkable effect on skin due to their penetration and biological capabilities, that they are actually being studied clinically to fight chronic inflammation at the molecular level.A 2020 study highlights the potential of topical application of Antimicrobial Peptides (AMPs) to fight inflammation in individuals with Atopic Dermatitis (AD), a common chronic inflammatory skin disease. They conclude, βAMPs not only represent potent antimicrobial agents but are also efficacious at restoring the TJ barrier, reducing itching symptoms, and suppressing Th2 inflammation, and, thus, they may become a new option for barrier repair therapy in AD treatment.β [7]
07
Limitations of Peptides
There are several benefits of peptides for skin, but also some challenges to overcome.
- Peptides are fairly new. There is a lot of promise and supporting research on peptides' biological abilities and applications across various industries. However, most papers call for further investigation. Within cosmetic formulations, alternatives like hyaluronic acid have been around for longer, and are more researched.
- Peptides are pricey. Peptides often have long, inefficient and expensive manufacturing processes. Additionally, modifications to improve peptideβs properties, such as skin penetration, adds to the manufacturing cost.
- Not all peptides are equal! Peptides of different length and sequences have different functionalities. Controlled studies clearly demonstrate that some peptides have superior rejuvenating effects, while others have no effect whatsoever. You want to make sure you donβt end up with a dud! [8]
07
Limitations of Peptides
There are several benefits of peptides for skin, but also some challenges to overcome.
- Peptides are fairly new. There is a lot of promise and supporting research on peptides' biological abilities and applications across various industries. However, most papers call for further investigation. Within cosmetic formulations, alternatives like hyaluronic acid have been around for longer, and are more researched.
- Peptides are pricey. Peptides often have long, inefficient and expensive manufacturing processes. Additionally, modifications to improve peptideβs properties, such as skin penetration, adds to the manufacturing cost.
- Not all peptides are equal! Peptides of different length and sequences have different functionalities. Controlled studies clearly demonstrate that some peptides have superior rejuvenating effects, while others have no effect whatsoever. You want to make sure you donβt end up with a dud! [8]
08
Good Candidates
While peptides show much promise, be wary of the fact that the word βpeptideβ has, in many ways, become a marketing tactic. So, before using a peptide-based product, make sure you do your due diligence and ensure its effects on the skin and its skin penetration capabilities have been scientifically tested and validated. Remember, a peptideβs effects are only useful if itβs reaching the deepest layers of the skin.
08
Good Candidates
While peptides show much promise, be wary of the fact that the word βpeptideβ has, in many ways, become a marketing tactic. So, before using a peptide-based product, make sure you do your due diligence and ensure its effects on the skin and its skin penetration capabilities have been scientifically tested and validated. Remember, a peptideβs effects are only useful if itβs reaching the deepest layers of the skin.
09
The Usual Suspects
Some of the most commonly used peptides in the anti-aging skincare industry are Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8. A 2020 study, Trending Anti-Aging Peptides, compared the efficacy of the three and found that all demonstrated anti-aging effects, and are valid ingredients for anti-aging supplements. [9]Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 and Palmitoyl Oligopeptide are relatively new ingredients with no reported issues of sensitivity, toxicity or hormone imbalance. However, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, specifically, has research indicating that overuse of this peptide may lead to skin tone discoloration. [10]Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 is significantly more researched but not recommended for sensitive skin. Try to avoid formulations that have alcohols, as the combination can dry the skin and make wrinkles more apparent. [11]
09
The Usual Suspects
Some of the most commonly used peptides in the anti-aging skincare industry are Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8. A 2020 study, Trending Anti-Aging Peptides, compared the efficacy of the three and found that all demonstrated anti-aging effects, and are valid ingredients for anti-aging supplements. [9]Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 and Palmitoyl Oligopeptide are relatively new ingredients with no reported issues of sensitivity, toxicity or hormone imbalance. However, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, specifically, has research indicating that overuse of this peptide may lead to skin tone discoloration. [10]Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 is significantly more researched but not recommended for sensitive skin. Try to avoid formulations that have alcohols, as the combination can dry the skin and make wrinkles more apparent. [11]
10
OneSkinβs Proprietary Peptide, OS-01
After five years of research and development, OneSkin developed the first peptide scientifically proven to reduce the skinβs biological age by preventing the spread of senescent cells in skin. [12] The OS-01 peptide has undergone rigorous testing, including extensive penetration studies in the lab on human skin samples, which has validated its ability to penetrate through the dermal layer of skin. The OS-01 peptide has also been scientifically proven to increase key biomarkers associated with the natural production of collagen and hyaluronic acid, increase skinβs epidermal thickness, and subsequently improve skinβs barrier function. [12]The OS-01 peptideβs penetration capabilities coupled with its positive effect on skinβs function, is what makes it the most advanced topical peptide in the skin care industry to improve skin health at the cellular level.
10
OneSkinβs Proprietary Peptide, OS-01
After five years of research and development, OneSkin developed the first peptide scientifically proven to reduce the skinβs biological age by preventing the spread of senescent cells in skin. [12] The OS-01 peptide has undergone rigorous testing, including extensive penetration studies in the lab on human skin samples, which has validated its ability to penetrate through the dermal layer of skin. The OS-01 peptide has also been scientifically proven to increase key biomarkers associated with the natural production of collagen and hyaluronic acid, increase skinβs epidermal thickness, and subsequently improve skinβs barrier function. [12]The OS-01 peptideβs penetration capabilities coupled with its positive effect on skinβs function, is what makes it the most advanced topical peptide in the skin care industry to improve skin health at the cellular level.
Key Takeaways:
- Peptides are used in cosmetics for their unique ability to penetrate the skin and work on the cellular level.
- Signaling peptides are able to naturally stimulate collagen production within the skin, strengthening the skin barrier, and enhancing skin elasticity and firmness.
- Peptides have superior antioxidant properties to proteins due to their higher rate of absorption and are even being researched to fight chronic inflammatory conditions.
- Not all peptides are created equal. Depending on the size and mechanism of action of a peptide, certain peptides have superior rejuvenation properties than others.
- OneSkinβs proprietary peptide, OS-01, is a scientifically validated, high penetrable peptide which has been scientifically proven to improve skin health markers at the molecular level, making OneSkinβs Topical Supplements one of the most cutting-edge topical products on the market.
Key Takeaways:
- Peptides are used in cosmetics for their unique ability to penetrate the skin and work on the cellular level.
- Signaling peptides are able to naturally stimulate collagen production within the skin, strengthening the skin barrier, and enhancing skin elasticity and firmness.
- Peptides have superior antioxidant properties to proteins due to their higher rate of absorption and are even being researched to fight chronic inflammatory conditions.
- Not all peptides are created equal. Depending on the size and mechanism of action of a peptide, certain peptides have superior rejuvenation properties than others.
- OneSkinβs proprietary peptide, OS-01, is a scientifically validated, high penetrable peptide which has been scientifically proven to improve skin health markers at the molecular level, making OneSkinβs Topical Supplements one of the most cutting-edge topical products on the market.
References
- https://nakedpoppy.com/blog/the-skin-barrier-why-its-the-secret-to-really-good-skin/#:~:text=What%20Is%20a%20Damaged%20Skin,the%20skin%2C%E2%80%9D%20says%20Plescia
- https://parjournal.net/article/view/3863
- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6835901/
- https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/drinking-collagen#collagen-in-diet
- https://www.cancer.gov/publications/dictionaries/cancer-terms/def/reactive-oxygen-species
- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18464032/#:~:text=The%20production%20of%20peptides%20through,antioxidant%20activity%20than%20intact%20proteins
- https://www.mdpi.com/1422-0067/21/20/7607/htm
- https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/4/2/16/htm
- https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/7/4/91/pdf
- https://lecerre.com/pages/palmitoyl-tetrapeptide-7#:~:text=Palmitoyl%20tetrapeptide%2D7%20is%20an,lead%20to%20skin%20discoloration%20issues
- https://thedermreview.com/acetyl-hexapeptide-8/
- https://www.nature.com/articles/s41514-023-00109-1
References
- https://nakedpoppy.com/blog/the-skin-barrier-why-its-the-secret-to-really-good-skin/#:~:text=What%20Is%20a%20Damaged%20Skin,the%20skin%2C%E2%80%9D%20says%20Plescia
- https://parjournal.net/article/view/3863
- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6835901/
- https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/drinking-collagen#collagen-in-diet
- https://www.cancer.gov/publications/dictionaries/cancer-terms/def/reactive-oxygen-species
- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18464032/#:~:text=The%20production%20of%20peptides%20through,antioxidant%20activity%20than%20intact%20proteins
- https://www.mdpi.com/1422-0067/21/20/7607/htm
- https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/4/2/16/htm
- https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/7/4/91/pdf
- https://lecerre.com/pages/palmitoyl-tetrapeptide-7#:~:text=Palmitoyl%20tetrapeptide%2D7%20is%20an,lead%20to%20skin%20discoloration%20issues
- https://thedermreview.com/acetyl-hexapeptide-8/
- https://www.nature.com/articles/s41514-023-00109-1
